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Roof Truss – the skeleton of the roof. A framework of beams that support the roof.
Rafters – The beams that run from the top of the roof to the bottom. Part of the roof truss.
Decking or Sheathing – Panels that cover the rafters and to which the roofing material (shingles, metal panels, etc..) are attached.
Underlayment – often called tar paper this heavy felt paper (synthetic materials are available as well) is placed on top of the decking before the roofing material is installed to offer an additional layer of protection from moisture.
Drip Edge – edging that is placed at the end of the roof (end of the eaves) used to allow water to run-off and drip clear of underlying construction.
Fascia – trim used to cover the rafter end of the eaves. Often where gutters are attached to the house.
Soffit – a finished underside of the eaves. Covers the area between the end of the eaves and the house.
Valley - internal angle formed when by the intersection of two sloping roof planes. The intersection of a cross hip or cross gable roof.
Gable – triangle shaped part of the end of a building underneath the roof and above the main portion of the house.
Ridge – the highest point of the roof that runs the length of the roof.
Flashing - Pieces of metal used to prevent the seepage of water around any intersection or projection in a roof, such as vent pipes, chimneys, valleys, and the joints at vertical walls.
Starter Strip - Asphalt roofing applied at the eaves that provides protection by filling in the spaces under the cutouts and joints of the first course of shingles.
Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris
that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any
other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water
will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt
based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.
If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or
lead control strips. Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and
there are no holes in them.
Keep algae off of the roof surface. Install zinc control strips along
the hips and ridges if necessary.Dab some roof cement under any loose shingle tabs.
One dab on either side should do.Replace any damaged shingles.
Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are
draining properly by water testing them.Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime.
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Roof Tips 101
You could dislodge the protective surface granules, diminishing waterproofing effectiveness. You also could fall off or through a weak, damaged roof.
If you find large accumulations of shingle surface granules in the gutters, it doesn’t necessarily mean the roof needs to be replaced. Call us to inspect the roof if in doubt.
Tile roofs should be checked for cracked, missing or loose pieces of roofing material. For asphalt or wood-shingle roofs, look for protruding nails.
On flat roofs, look for bare spots in the gravel surface and check for standing water.
Check television antennas and other add-ons to see if there are leaks that are a result of improper sealing of openings made in the roof
How Do I know If I Need A New Roof?
If you have shingles blown off the roof.If the shingles are starting to curl or crack.
If you have water dripping down between the gutter and fascia.
If you have stains in the sheet rock of your home.
Also if you have wrinkles in the paint and or blisters in the paint.
If you have water coming into your home.
Choosing The Right Contractor
The contractor should be professional in his or her appearance, and their handling of your roofing project.The contractor should have been in business for at least ten years. The contractor should be able to provide you with their business license and proof of insurance.
The roofing contractor should be knowledgeable, and should ask questions about your roofing needs.
You should feel comfortable with your contractor.
Weekly Definitions
Double Coverage:Application of asphalt roofing such that the lapped portion is at least two inches wider than the exposed portion, resulting in two layers of roofing material over the deck.